Category Archives: Knit Hack

HACK & PROJECT Simple Skirt

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KNIT HACK: Project Searches

Sometimes a great way to browse for potential projects on Ravelry is to do it through actual projects. The main advanced pattern search on Ravelry is great, but it normally shows patterns based on their popularity, and because of that it often feels very redundant, and I don’t get to see project ideas that are not the most popular. One alternative way to browse for inspiration is to search PROJECTS, rather than patterns.

  2. Then I click on the PROJECTS tab in the top left. This will show all the projects people have added to Ravelry.
  3. You can change the order they are displayed based on various factors by clicking on the drop-down menu that is just to the right of the “search” box.
  4. So far, you still have a lot of stuff to look at. The big column of menu items on the left side of the screen will let you limit the search parameters. For example, you might want only crochet projects, or a certain weight or yarn, or a specific type of project (like a shawl, or a sweater). Today, I am searching for a specific yarn, so I went to the bottom and chose YARN NAME and put in “Rowan Denim”.
  5. I found a skirt that looked really interesting. To see more skirts made with this yarn, I put “skirt” into the search box and it pulled up all kinds of skirt projects made with Rowan Denim.




Simple Straight Skirt

In my search today, I found something really cool, a simple straight skirt made with Rowan Original Denim – a great little summer knit that you can wear all year. Plus, the denim yarn is pretty sturdy so it will stand up much better than a regular cotton or a wool. Plus, Rowan Denim is ON SALE NOW!

Materials (for a 19″ skirt)

  • Rowan Original Denim: 6(7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10)
  • 4mm/US6 needles (straight or circular)
  • TWO 3.5mm-24″ circular needles
  • Size I (5.5mm) crochet hook, for provisional cast-on.
  • ¾”/2cm non-roll elastic (waist measurement plus 2″/5cm).
  • Needle and thread (for the elastic)
  • Optional: Blocking materials.
  • Pattern Download


Finished hip sizes (actual skirt hip measurement after seaming):  32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52)inches or 81 (86, 91, 97, 102, 107, 112, 117, 122, 127, 132)cm.


Denim yarn is a lot like the denim your jeans are made of, and it is dyed with the same type of dye, indigo. All the things that happen with your jeans also affect denim yarn. You should definitely not avoid using denim, and knowing a few hacks in advance will make the experience fun.

1. Shrinkage

Denim shrinks in length (like jeans), so I suggest you make your project a little longer than you normally would, maybe buy an extra ball. If you are using a pattern written by Rowan for their denim yarn, all of this will already have been taken into account, so you don’t have to worry about this.

2. Dye

Due to the nature of the indigo dye, it bleeds. The two darker colours come off on your hands quite a bit, and I’ll admit that that is a constraint unless you live in a world where everything you own is a dark colour. The lightest colour isn’t as bad, the colour transfers a little bit but not a ton.

  1. I skein up the yarn and secure it in at least 4 points. If you’re making something big you can join the skeins and made a super-skein to save time down the road.
  2. I fill a basin with cold water and white vinegar (maybe a cup? I just splash a bunch in). I use the Allen’s Cleaning Vinegar, it is double strength and seems to stabilize dye better than regular white vinegar.
  3. I leave the yarn in the solution for at least 15 minutes – I like to give it a good soak for good measure.
  4. I hang the yarn to dry.
  5. With the two darker colours I will wash the yarn a second time in a fresh vinegar bath, to set any residual dye.

It’s a little bit of work, but in the summer it’s fun to do some experimentation and light chemistry experimentation.  I do it in my bathroom and the indigo has never stained my white ceramic. It’s also a fun thing to do on the deck or balcony.

Other Denim Hacks & Lore



KNIT HACK Teachable Moments

DMC Natura Lace preblock 1

Knit Hack

I know most yarn stores don’t normally talk about their flops – we really don’t want to scare you out of trying things – but I felt like this project could be a great teaching moment for all of us. I’ll throw in some technical advice, but it’s really more about what’s going on in our heads.

So I knit a sweater in 4 pieces, I blocked each piece as I went, and I seamed them together. I tried it on prior to a final block and it, A. did not fit comfortably, and B. did not look good. NOTE: I did not weave in the ends, because it ain’t over till it’s OVER – and I include blocking in this – because it’s a major pain if you have to take the seams out and the ends are already in. If the ends are still free the project is still salvageable. If they’re woven in, there is no way I’m going back in, it’s just too masochistic for me. If you enjoy it, please be my guest. 

The Back Story

I had a new yarn, DMC Natural XLCotton, and I wanted to experiment with it, see what it could do (and not do). I decided a sweater is a good test, and I wanted a new cotton sweater for wearing around the store (yeah, I’m like Mr Rogers, I come in and change my sweater and my shoes).

First Mistake: Pattern Choice

First off, I searched for a pattern that might work with this tension of yarn. I settled on Dawning. It looked pretty on the model, right? The pattern choice was my first mistake, I broke my own rules! I know which shapes and styles suit my body, what I look best in, and what I can get away with.

Reality no.1:

I have small shoulders, I look best in set-in sleeves, I can get away with a yoke construction.

Reality no. 2:

I have a bottom heavy profile, so I look good in necklines that elongate the appearance of my upper body, like a boat neck. However, I still have small shoulders, which means that a neckline that looks good on a model with large shoulders falls off of mine. I have to shorten my necklines, bring them in a bit.

Reality no. 3:

I look terrible in anything thicker than a worsted weight yarn, they’re generally too bulky for my frame.

If you want to learn more about your body shape and what looks good on you, I highly recommend the book Knit to Flatter by Amy Herzog, and Amy’s online class Knit to Flatter. They are both extremely helpful, and I found her to be an engaging teacher in the online class


DMC Natura Lace preblock 2

Second Mistake: Forcing the Swatch

Next, I started swatching. If you go to my Ravelry project page you can see I did a bit of swatching. I wanted to be diligent, and I swatched in stocking stitch and in the lace pattern. I swatched until I got the right tension for the pattern.

Questionable Choice no. 1: Playing With Needle Size

While trying to get the right tension, I went WAY down from the recommended needle size on the ball-band (They recommend an 8mm to 9mm (US 11 to 13), and I pushed it down to a 6.5mm (US10.5). At work I’m always telling people not to force the yarn, you can’t change what it is, you have to work with its innate physical properties. I ignored my own advice because the swatch seemed to feel ok. Maybe I was just deluding myself, I don’t know.

Questionable Choice no. 2: Swatches Aren’t Sweaters

Another thing I always tell my clients is that a little 6″ swatch does not behave the same way as a full-size garment, especially once you factor seaming into the equation (seaming creates more structure in a garment, so If you have something that is already stiff it will make it even stiffer. Because I forced the needle size, the fabric as a sweater doesn’t have much flexibility.

Questionable Choice no. 3: Fibres Are What They Are

The third and last mistake in judgement is that I ignored what I knew about the textile. It is cotton, and I know that cotton always looks thinner than it knits. I deluded myself and into believing what I wanted to believe. Moreover, the yarn that the garment was designed with was made with the same fibre, cotton, but had a very different structure. Theirs was a stretchy, woven tape, and mine was a multi-ply strand that didn’t have and internal give. I knew my substitution was never going to fall the same way the one in the pattern did, but I kind of ignored the extent to which the drape was a part of the garment’s construction and design.


Third Mistake: Size Choice

Cotton stretches, and I don’t love super oversized garments, so I went down to a size smaller than I would normally wear. BIG mistake. First off, cotton that is knit too tight does not stretch appreciably. Second, I don’t normally wear garments in bulky or super bulky weight yarn. Finally, I forgot about the rules of ease (the amount of space between you and your garment), which I learned from Lily Chin in my early days in this industry. Basically, the thicker the yarn is, the more space you’re going to need between you and the garment to make it fit comfortably. Thick yarns take up a larger amount of space, so you need more ease in a garment made with them. Garment designers scale up the ease for a reason, and I ignored that fact.

I learned this stuff about ease in a class with Lily, but I think it is all in her book Lily Chin’s Knitting Tips and Tricks.  The Craft Yarn Council has a chart that describes standards for ease, but it doesn’t include the amount of ease you should add as the yarn gets thicker. 

Moving Forward

Ok, so moving forward, what am I going to do? I mean, just because you make seven bad choices and basically ignore just about everything you know about knitting doesn’t mean the project has to go in the garbage.

Solution no. 1: No Shame

I don’t have any bad feelings. I do not feel any shame or remorse about this project or anything accompanying it. It’s a sweater, not my life’s work. If it doesn’t work out, it’s no biggy, nothing is going to happen to me. My identity isn’t invested in the things I make, they’re just crafts. Tears are not necessary.

Solution no. 2: Salvage

The upper arms are way too tight, so I’m going to take out the seams and try re-seaming them looser. Then I’ll give the whole thing another good blocking and maybe try and stretch it. It might improve things, it might not. I won’t know until I try.

Solution no. 3: Make Lemonade

Got a bowl of lemons? Make lemonade. This sweater wasn’t a success as a garment, but it’s a great teachable moment I can share with you! Sometimes a thing isn’t what you intended it to be, and it turns out to be something else, something that is equally, if not more, valuable.


Solution no. 4: Mindfulness, Introspection and Growth

This is the hardest part of this process. I think it might be one of the hardest parts of life. You might not be ready for this, but I highly recommend it. I ignored my own wisdom SEVEN times in the process of making this garment, that’s a pretty significant pattern. At any time I could have stopped myself but I pushed on until the end, oblivious to the realities at hand. And I *still* haven’t completely thrown in the towel! So I have to ask myself, what’s my motivation, what is my relationship with this sweater anyway?!

By the way, I’m a somewhat shy person and not especially into opening up my inner life online. I’m sharing this part of my process because I see customers EVERY DAY who are stuck in this type of thing, and it honestly breaks my heart. 

Thinking about it, I think I got hooked on the picture in the pattern. It must have tweaked some inner, aspirational vision of myself. I’m normally fairly jaded and skeptical about aspirational marketing, but this one seems to have slipped in under my radar. The photo (above) isn’t even that sophisticated, it isn’t one of those pictures of big-shouldered women with impossibly thick hair casually walking down a beach in their sweater, without a care in the world ….. and AH-HA! As I re-read that last sentence I see it – I wish I had hair like that lady in the picture, it doesn’t have anything to do with the sweater. I have always wanted thick, long, luxurious hair. I didn’t even consciously notice the model’s hair until now.  Over the last few years, I’ve managed to grow my hair long, but I’m afraid thick and luxurious aren’t in my genetic cards.

Well, there you go, what a funny little subconscious thing! (Although, it’s tied to my insecurities, so I guess it isn’t *that* insignificant, I shouldn’t dismiss it out of hand, right? Insecurities have feelings too!) Wow, a random belief about something as small as my hair still had the power to lead me down the garden path and completely block out my better judgement. I don’t think my intuition even had an opportunity to get a word in edgewise!

(Please note, I apologize for the privilege on display in my subconscious. Hair isn’t a huge part of my culture, it isn’t normally something I think too much about. But I’m well aware that in other cultures a woman’s hair is a BIG thing, and they totally get how it factors into a person’s feelings and conception about themselves – clearly much better than I do.)

Tonight, when I’m meditating before bed, I’ll release this stuff and set it free. Well, I’ll actually be setting myself free – who needs to carry this stuff around?!  I’ll also be nice to my hair, I’ll wash it and make an appointment to get a long needed trim. I think it’s the least I can do for us.

dawning combo.jpg

KNITHACK The Pantyhose Hack

The weather has turned warm and I frequently find myself recommending this hack to clients in the store. Summer yarns tend to be made from plant fibres (like cotton and linen, hemp), cellulose based fibres (tencel made from mashed up and reconstituted plants like bamboo, seaweed, etc), silk, or synthetics (nylon is one of the higher quality synthetics, you’ll also see ‘microfiber’, viscose, and acrylic on labels). These fibres have a tendency to be a bit slippery, and the balls can fall apart or collapse, making a big tangle for you to negotiate at just the wrong time. Enter the Panty Hose Hack ….

NOTE: If you want to learn more about the fibres used in yarn, Clara Parkes is your Guru, she knows everything: “The Knitter’s Book of Yarn” by Clara Parkes (available online or through your public library), or the Craftsy online class “Know Your Yarn” with Clara Parkes.

Hack Pantyhose BLOG 2

KNITHACK The Pantyhose Hack


  • 1 pair of Panty Hose or Tights
  • sharp scissors

1. Acquire a Pair of Pantyhose or Tights

Old hose from the bottom of your drawer will work just fine. Personally, I have an aesthetic issue with regular nude or black hose, I always feel like my yarn is about to knock over a convenience store. I buy mine at the dollar store, I like to find pretty colours and fun textures. I think the ones above were some kind of mesh kids tights from the dollar store. For some reason, I get a kick out of fine gauge fishnets on my yarn.

2. Deconstruct the Hose

One pair of pantyhose or tights will make 4 “yarn bras” or sacks:

  1. Cut each leg off below the crotch.
  2. Cut each leg into 2 roughly similar sized parts (it won’t hurt if the upper part of the leg can be a bit longer). You should have two pieces with a closed end (the foot) and two pieces that are tubes with both ends open. (note: I wouldn’t bother trying to get 6 pieces from a single pair of hose/tights, the pieces end up being too short unless the balls you are working with are very small)
  3. With each of the tube pieces, tie a knot at one end of the tube. (do not tie the tube pieces to each other, and do not tie knots in both ends of the same piece).

3. Insert Yarn in the “Yarn Bra”

Pop your yarn in, and you’re ready to go! The hose/tights will act like Spanx for your ball of yarn, and keep it under control. You can work from the tail coming from the centre of the ball and the whole thing will stay in place.

Hack Pantyhose BLOG 1


That’s it, that’s the Pantyhose Hack. There isn’t much to it, but it will make your knitterly life easier and keep you and your yarn much happier.

NEW & FREEBIE Rowan Denim

Rowan Original Denim DISPLAY

Rowan Original Denim

Rowan Original Denim is a 100% cotton yarn, which behaves like denim fabric.  It shrinks slightly on its first wash and the colour continues to fade gradually over time, creating a unique look. It’s great for people of all ages, and all kinds of projects, including sweaters, tanks, blankets, bags, facecloths and tea-towels, etc.

Rowan Original Denim is suitable for all-year-round knits and showcases textured stitches and cabling brilliantly. If you want to keep your Rowan Original Denim garments looking sharp, try hand washing in a delicate wash and add a cup of white vinegar to the water before adding the garments.


  • Rowan Original Denim is dyed with indigo, and while using this yarn you can expect dye to rub off on your hands and needles, especially the darker shades.
  • Consider using metal needles and wearing dark colours while you work with it, (and definitely stay away from white furniture).
  • To stabilize the dye, block your knits in cold water with a cup of white vinegar.
  • Read more about using denim yarns and knitting denim squares.

Shop Online Button Turquoise 250w

rowan denim combo

Photos: Rowan. Patterns: Creeper, Paris, Raspy



  • Pattern
  • Rowan Original Denim: 11(12, 12, 13, 14) skeins  [finished width: 17(18.5, 19, 20.5, 21″)]
  • 3.75mm/US5 needles
  • 4mm/US6 needles


  • Pattern
  • Rowan Original Denim: 11(12, 12, 13, 14) skeins  [finished width: 17.5 (19, 19.5, 21, 21.5″)]
  • 3.75mm/US5 needles
  • 4mm/US6 needles




Boneyard Shawl

KNIT HACK Sweater Lab Prep



Sweater Lab TONIGHT

Our inaugural Sweater Lab ( in collaboration with Your Fiber Intake) starts TONIGHT! Since it’s a bit of an experiment for us, we don’t know what the result will be, but I think everyone will have fun, so it should be a success. For those of you who have already made a sweater, you don’t really need any prep, but for the uninitiated, I’d like to offer a bit of guidance. For more info on Sweater Lab, follow this MAGIC LINK (or click on the picture or any of the other links).

So You’ve Never Made a Sweater Before ….

DON’T PANIC … You don’t need to be afraid. It’s just a garment, and the pattern tells you how to do it, step by step. When you don’t know what a term or abbreviation means you can look it up on the internet. If you are old skool, you can look it up in a book, like The Principles of Knitting by June Hemmons Hiatt, The Knitter’s Companion by Vicky Square, or The Ultimate Knitting Book by Vogue Knitting.

Choose a Pattern

You need a pattern. I suggest going for something basic, something vetted, and something worked in the round.

BASIC … seems obvious, and yet many people make their lives difficult by taking on something more involved. Why do they do this, they get caught up in the *idea* of the finished product; they want it to be perfect and ideal for their taste. Let go of that, it’s your first sweater, not your last. It doesn’t need to be ideal, it just needs to be a sweater. Moreover, I have found that people are less likely to complete their projects when they contain a lot of barriers. Newbies with simpler projects tend to learn faster, have more success with their project and ENJOY THE PROCESS.

VETTED … this means a pattern that is written by a professional designer and has already been made by many people. For the following example, I’ll use FLAX by Tin Can Knits.  You can find the latter on Ravelry; go to a pattern, and click on the PROJECTS tab at the top of the page. It will show you all the projects people have made with the pattern. If you go to the drop-down menu that ways FILTER THESE PROJECTS you can refine your search to ALL HELPFUL PROJECTS. The little life preserver at the top right of each project indicates the number of people who found this project helpful. Presently, it is not possible to sort the projects by ‘Most Helpful’, so you have to troll through the projects to find one that is useful.

IN THE ROUND … I primarily prefer sweaters worked in the round (top-down) for newbies because they usually have minimal finishing, especially seaming. For newbies, seaming tends to be a barrier to actually finishing a project, and a bad seaming job decreases satisfaction with the project. Now, I’m not saying *never* make a seamed sweater, quite the opposite, there’s nothing sexier than old-fashioned set-in sleeves. You do not need to be afraid of or avoid seaming, but on your first sweater making a project in one piece tends to end with more Joy and less frustration. This goes back to our first principle, go for Basic andENJOY THE PROCESS.

TENSION … choose a pattern that is worked with a yarn that is a worsted to chunky weight (between 20 to 14 stitches over 4 inches/10cm). Going thinner or thicker seems to make life difficult, and decreases the success of the project.

Suggested Patterns

The following are all basic garments, are written by professionals, have clear instructions, and are worked in the round, from the top-down.


Choose a Yarn

A few considerations on choosing the yarn for your first sweater …

TENSION … make sure your yarn matches the stitch tension in your pattern or is close (within one stitch over 4″/10cm).

DURABILITY … you may be ripping back your work a few times, DO choose a yarn that has some durability and won’t get mucky with a lot of handling. Single ply yarns do not tend to wear well, no matter the price-point, they end up looking mungy very quickly. Multi-ply yarns tend to fare better. Super scratchy wool yarns tend to be very durable, super soft yarns tend to start pilling WHILE you are knitting. My best advice is to find something in-between. By the way, durability is also beneficial once you’re finished and will add to the longevity of the garment.

FIBRE …DO choose a fibre you enjoy, but DO NOT choose a fibre that is hard to work with. A 100% wool like Cascade 220 Superwash or Cascade Eco are ideal; they work up easily, wear well, and are cost effective. Wool blends are also suitable, like Berroco Vintage or Berroco Vintage Chunky; both knit well, wear well, and are machine washable, and people are rarely allergic to it. If you need a cooler yarn, try a cotton/synthetic blend like Cascade Avalon.  Fibres that are unpredictable or hard to work with include alpaca (and other camelids), linen, pure cotton, mohair, viscose (and other cellulose plant-based fibres like bamboo), and 100% synthetic yarns.

COLOUR … choose whatever colour makes you happy (solid, heathered, tweed, variegated, self-striping), but don’t choose something that is very dark. Dark colours will make it hard to see what you are doing, and this could prove to be a very bad thing on a project where you don’t really know what to expect.

PRICE … this is a touchy subject, especially since I’m the one selling the yarn and you are the one who has to actually shell out your hard earned cash. You don’t need to lay out a ton of money for a good yarn, but when it comes to cheap yarns, you get what you pay for. Actually, you often get less than what you paid for. The retail garment industry has decreased our awareness of (and exposure to) good textiles, and as a consequence, many people aren’t familiar with quality textiles or their market prices. Quality textiles are more expensive than you expect, you’re might experience a little bit of sticker shock. From my perspective, I’ve found that people who use a decent yarn enjoy their project more, it is more successful, they actually finish it, they like and use the finished product, and they enjoy the process.

Suggested Yarns


I think that’s about all I can handle writing (and you can read) right now, but I promise to follow this post up with a very exciting discussion on SWATCHING! (No, seriously, it’s REALLY important. You need to swatch, and you need to swatch properly).


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Noro Silk Garden Noro Striped Scarf.jpg

Noro Striped Scarf

Yup, I did it, I made ANOTHER Noro Striped Scarf. My creative juices have been syphoned off by other tasks lately, and I just needed a project that’s simple, brainless, but also tactile and lovely. Plus I has some Noro Silk Garden in my personal stash that really, really, really needed to get used.

I used a total of 6 skeins (3 of each colourway) and my scarf is VERY long, it wraps around three times. 4 skeins will make a normal length scarf. I haven’t bothered blocking the scarf, but Noro Silk Garden always enjoys a little bath in Eucalan.


As far as striping Noro goes, you’ve got a few options:

  1. Alternate the two colours of self-striping yarn. This is what the original pattern does.
  2. Alternate one colour of self-striping yarn by starting it at different parts of the colourway. When you do this you can guarantee that your colours will always match.
  3. Alternate a solid or semi-solid colour with a self-striping colour.

I went with option number 3, using a neutral colour that contrasts with the self-striping yarn. The neutral is Noro Silk Garden 269, so it is technically a self-striping yarn, but the colour shift is so subtle that it is barely noticeable used in this way. Cream is also a secret fix for when you can’t find the right contrast colour, it always makes the other colours ‘pop’.

By the way, you are absolutely allowed to edit the colourway. If there’s a colour in your ball that you absolutely loathe (or just modestly dislike) cut it out and move on. The same thing goes if the colours start to blend together and you lose the stripes, cut one colour and move on up to the next. Life is short, don’t be afraid to jettison recalcitrant colours!


If you’ve got little bits of Noro Silk Garden left-over and possess DPN (double pointed needles) skills, they make excellent little ornaments and decorations. I made a PILE of them last year, they use about 12g of Noro Silk Garden.


  • Noro Silk Garden: 2 to 3 skeins in each of two colours (a total of 4 to 6 skeins ), we used colour 269 (cream) and a contrasting colour colourway which has been discontinued, colour 381 is the closest to what we used.
  • 4.5mm/US 7 needles
  • tapestry needle
  • FREE Pattern



manhattan cowl 1.jpeg

Manhattan Cowl

I thought this cowl would make a great one-skein gift idea, so I gave it a try and I think it worked out really beautifully! I used one of my favourite bulky weight yarns, Diamond Luxury Baby Alpaca Sport, and the end result is SUPER soft and cozy! I had to make some modifications to make this project come out to it’s fullest potential, so please read the notes below before starting (and maybe print them off and keep them with your pattern instructions).

HACKS & Modifications

I made some changes to the pattern because let’s face it, you often get what you pay for with a free pattern.

  • For the ribbing, I went down to a 5mm/US8 needle for the ribbing. 2×2 rib is normally a looser tension than other stitches, and you need to go down a needle size to mitigate this and prevent the ribbing from fanning out later.
  • For the cable section, I went up to a 6.5mm/US10.5 needle, because the yarn is very fluffy and airy. If you are using a denser yarn with more definition (see suggestions below) you can stick with the prescribed 6mm/US10 needles
  • Because my yarn is big and fluffy, and has a lot of aura (haze), the cable from the original pattern was not showing up or working well, and I had to switch it out for another type of cable that would show better. I went with a simple braided cable that I was already familiar with, Chart A from Lopi Braided Hat & Mitts. It is the same number of stitches as the original cable, so I just did the new cable instead of the old. If you use a yarn with more definition (see options below), you can do either cable.
  • I worked 6 rounds of ribbing at the top and the bottom (to conserve yarn).
  • I worked 4 pattern repeats from Chart A of the Lopi Braided Hat & Mitts, and changed to the ribbing after finishing row 6 of the chart.
  • I don’t usually bother using a cable needle. Making cables without a cable hook is not a skill for the novice, but if you are feeling intrepid and are comfortable with retrieving dropped stitches and are good at ‘reading’ your stitches (recognizing where and what they are), you should definitely it give it a try, it can save you a lot of time and effort:
  • If you need to conserve yarn or change the size of the pattern, you can omit the first 4 sts of the pattern (the single rib at the start doesn’t really do much for the design). In *my project* (yours may be different), based on the total number of rounds, each stitch represents about 40 sts in the scheme of the entire pattern. Omitting 4 sts from the cast-on will give you about two extra rounds. Each cable represents 8 stitches, so you can increase or decrease the pattern in a multiple of 8 sts. If you want to modify this for a child you’ll definitely want to omit stitches, it fits an adult comfortably.




Other Yarn Options

We chose to use a fluffy, warm alpaca yarn, but you can use something firmer, which will give your cables more definition and your cowl less slouch – just use 6mm/US10 needles.

Diamond Alpaca Sport Manhattan Cowl COMBO BLOG.jpg

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