The Technicolor Tote Bag is worked from the bottom up in a slipped stitch pattern. The bag is worked in three strands of yarn held together throughout, and the gradual transitions between colors are achieved by continuously changing between the different colors held together (don’t worry, the color changes are thoroughly described in the pattern and the pattern is supported with youtube videos). Work the bag in your favorite colors and either meticulously change colors as the pattern dictates or use the description in the pattern as a guide and inspiration and create your own interpretation of the Technicolor Tote Bag.
This project also makes a GORGEOUS cushion …. see below for a beautiful picture.
This project is of course ideal for stash-busting, but the designer hasn’t given actual yardage amounts in the pattern, just suggestions for the number of balls required. I explored the finished projects and found a few people who had generously entered their accurate yarn totals, and it looks like you’ll need a total of 700 to 750m (900m on the outside) of DK weight yarn. A few projects say they used about 400g of yarn.
Size: One size
Width: 34 cm [13½ inches]
Height: approx. 38 cm [15 inches]
How do the colours work? You’ve got a few different shades working together to create a harmonious composition:
C1: A medium colour that attracts the eye (royal blue was used in the original) C2: A dark colour (dark brown was used in the original) C3: A light neutral (ecru/light beige was used in the original) C4: A medium-light neutral (camel was used in the original) C5: A bright colour that POPS! (bright orange was used in the original)
Looking for a larger bag? Look no further than the Petite Knit Technicolor Shopper! (I think this post is already long enough, just click on the picture or the link above to find all the details for the project.)
We recently received a shipment of a new staple yarn, Sandnes Garn Double Sunday. Double Sunday is a favourite of PetiteKnit, to the extent where she’s collaborated with the yarn company and added her own palette of colours. Double Sunday is a soft, 100% merino wool, non-superwash double knit weight yarn (3.5mm to 4mm needles). It works up beautifully on its own, or try holding it with a kid-mohair like Drops Kid Silk or a brushed alpaca like Drops Brushed Alpaca & Silk to give it a halo St. Peter would envy. While the ball band says to hand wash, the word on the street is that you can machine wash this yarn (I’ll whip up a swatch and throw it in my next load). No matter what, always wash your hand knits in a delicate bag on delicate so they don’t abrade!
The Hipster Hat is worked bottom-up in a 2×2 rib stitch. The bottom has a folded edge of about 6 (6) 8 (8) cm [2¼ (2¼) 3¼ (3¼) inches] (you can do a double folded edge if you knit the hat extra-long, but bear in mind that this will require more yarn than suggested). The decreases at the top of the head are done by working 2 sts together on each side of two knit sts a total of 4 times across the round. The Hipster Hat can be knit a bit long for it to get a little “hipster top” or to a length where it fits your head snuggly. The Hipster Hat is for both men and women.
baby (child) woman (man)
head circumference of approximately: 45-48 (48-53) 53-57 (57-60) cm [17¾-19 (19-20¾) 20¾-22½ (22½-23½) inches]
The Oslo Hat is worked in two strands of yarn held together from the bottom up in stockinette stitch. The first part of the hat is worked on a 40 cm 16 inches circular needle, while the top of the hat is worked either on double-pointed needles or on a circular needle using the Magic Loop technique.
XS (S) M (L) the approx. equivalent to baby (junior/woman) woman (man)
head circumference of approximately: 47-50 (50-55) 55-59 (59-62) cm [18½-19¾ (19¾-21¾) 21¾-23¼ (23¼-24½) inches]
The Champagne Cardigan is worked from the top down with raglan increases on the yoke and a deep V-neck. The neckline of the cardigan is shaped with short rows by raising the back of the neck. The button plackets are worked in double knitting with buttonholes along the right side.
The Champagne Cardigan has an oversize fit and is designed to have approx. 28 cm [11 inches] of positive ease, meaning it is designed to be 28 cm [11 inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. The sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL are designed to fit a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 cm (130-140) 140-150 cm [31½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) 55-59 inches].
Before beginning your project, measure yourself to determine which size to knit. For example, if you measure 106 cm [41¾ inches] around your bust (or around the widest part of your upper body) you should knit a size XL. A size XL sweater has a bust circumference of 134 cm [52¾ inches] which in the given example would give you 28 cm [11 inches] of positive ease.
Hanko has a boxy and relaxed fit that is effortless to wear and style in many different ways. It is my take on the classic Breton stripe style, but with a few little twists such as the two-colour stripes, dropped shoulder line and wide sleeves. Did you also notice the two-colour tubular bind off at the hem and the cuffs?
Hanko is knitted seamlessly top-down. The neckline is folded double, and the top of the back is shaped with German short rows to improve the fit around the neck. The shoulders are sloped and worked by increasing stitches along the shoulder line. After finishing the increases the front and back are separated and knitted separately to create the sleeve openings. After that, the pieces are joined again in the round and worked seamlessly down to the hem. Lastly, stitches are picked up around the sleeve openings and worked in the round. You can easily try the Hanko pullover on as you knit it and adjust the measurements to your own body measurements.
Hanko got its name after the small seaside town in Finland. The town of Hanko is a popular summer destination with beautiful beaches, marinas and old wooden villas dating back to the 19th century.
This garment is supposed to be an oversized fit and features a positive ease of 25 cm / 10 inches.
The Marseille Sweater is worked from the top down. First, the back yoke is worked back and forth, while the shoulder slope is created by working short rows for a good fit. After this, each shoulder is worked back and forth separately with short row shaping. Then, the shoulders are joined to form the front. The front and back are worked separately and joined at the bottom of the armholes, and then the body is worked in the round on a circular needle. The sleeves are worked from stitches that are picked up and knitted along the armholes and are shaped using short rows. The sleeves are worked in the round on a circular needle and double-pointed needles or using the Magic Loop technique. The neck edge is worked from stitches that are picked up and knitted along the neckline, it is then folded double and knitted together. The Marseille Sweater is worked with stripes, the placements of which are described in the pattern.
The Marseille Sweater is designed to have approx. 25 cm [9¾ inches] of positive ease, meaning it is designed to be 25 cm [9¾ inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. Before beginning your project, measure yourself to determine which size to knit. For example, if you measure 90 cm [35½ inches] around your bust (or around the widest part of your upper body) you should knit a size S. A size S sweater has a bust circumference of 115 cm [45¼ inches], which in the given example would give you 25 cm [9¾ inches] of positive ease.
Designed to fit a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 cm (130-140) 140-150 cm [31½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) 55-59 inches].
The chart is designed to make the knitting flow, even though the cables are placed closely together. For this reason, all the cables are knitted on the same row, followed by 3 simpler rows. The cable pattern is easy to memorize and not too difficult to knit, even if you haven’t knit cables before. The mittens are knitted bottom-up and the thumbs are knitted at the end, using the ‘’afterthought’’ method.
The mittens are quite stretchy in width, and they will therefore fit a wide range of sizes. The length is adjusted by knitting fewer or more repeats.
S (Small, Womens), L (Large, Womens)
Length: S – 18.5 cm, L – 21 cm (measured without the cuff). Fits hands with palm length S – 16.5-18 cm, L – 18.5-20.5 cm (measured from the wrist to the tip of the longest finger).
Circumference: S and L – 17.5 cm (without stretching, corresponds to 8.5-9 cm width). The circumference is the same in both sizes and can be stretched comfortably to a circumference of 22 cm. The mittens will fit a palm measured around the knuckles’ circumference (without the thumb) of 16 to 22 cm.